Pure Blue Japan

Pure Blue Japan AIBK-013 17.5oz. Natural Indigo x Sumi Selvedge Jeans (Slim Tapered)

AIBK-013
  • 17.5oz. Natural Indigo x Natural Sumi Unsanforized Japanese Selvedge denim
  • Unsanforized Selvedge denim
  • Hank dyed Natural Deep Indigo
  • "Aizome" translates as Natural Indigo
  • Slim Tapered fit
  • 5 button fly
  • Blue selvedge ID line
  • Brass copper rivets
  • Hidden rivets
  • Lambskin leather back patch
  • Natural plant indigo dyed denim
  • Leaf logo on back right pocket

Pushing the limits of Hank dyed Natural Indigo, PBJ just upped the ante. With the Warp dyed by hand in Natural Indigo and the Weft in a dye derived from tree bark to create Natural Sumi, we can confidently say this piece once again raised the bar for the potential of hank (hand dyed using the skein dyeing method) dyed garments. 

The cotton yarns used to weave the fabric of these jeans are hank dyed with natural indigo, by aging craftsmen in Tokushima, Japan. With hank dyeing, the yarns are dipped repeatedly by hand (minimum of 20 times per lot) until the deep blue color of the natural indigo has settled into the cotton threading. 

The persistence that hank dyeing with natural indigo requires, guarantees a denim with a more resilient indigo color than any chemical indigo dye. The lengthy duration for the preparation of the dye, as well as a limited annual supply (only using Japanese Indigofera plant leaves) make natural indigo denim from Tokushima particularly sought after.

Traditionally, Sumi is produced from a combination of pinewood soot, animal glue and perfume. A common misconception is that the final product is a liquid, when in fact the ink is only the result of rubbing a solid ink 'stick' against an inkstone with water. Thus, the original production of ink sticks requires a painstaking process of thoroughly mixing the raw ingredients before kneading and shaping them in wooden moulds. The aging process can take from a few months to several years. 

In the case of the Tokushima shokunin (artisans) that created the yarns used to produce this denim, the soot the comes off burnt pine tree bark is combined with a natural adhesive to create a natural Sumi sukumo which is then created into a dark dye.

*Model is pictured wearing a size 31, Raw. He weighs 75kg (165pounds) and is 175cm (5'10") tall.

Size - Raw (CM) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
30 80 26.5 36.5 30.5 20.5 17 92
31 82 27 37 31 21 17.5 92
32 86 27.5 38 32 21.5 18 92
33 88 28 38.5 32.5 22 18.5 92
34 91 28.5 39 33 22.5 19 92
36 96 29.5 40 34.5 24 20 92
38 100 30.5 41 36 25 21 92
 Size - Raw (Inches) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
30 31.5 10.4 14.4 12 8.1 6.7 36.2
31 32.3 10.6 14.6 12.2 8.3 6.9
36.2
32 33.9 10.8 15 12.6 8.5 7.1
36.2
33 34.6 11 15.2 12.8 8.7 7.3
36.2
34 35.8 11.2 15.4 13 8.9 7.5
36.2
36 37.8 11.6 15.7 13.6 9.4 7.9
36.2
38 39.4 12 16.1 14.2 9.8 8.3
36.2
Size - One Wash (CM) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
30 74 25 34 28 19.5 15.5 86
31 76 25.5 35 29 20 16 86
32 78 26 35.5 30 20.5 16.5 86
33 80 26.5 36 31 21 17 86
34 84 27 36.5 32 21.5 17.5 86
35 86 27.5 37 32.5 22 18 86
36 88 28 37.5 33 23 19 86
38 92 29 38.5 34 24 20 86
Size - One Wash (Inches) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
30 29.1 9.8 13.4 11 7.7 6.1 33.9
31 29.9 10 13.8 11.4 7.9 6.3
33.9
32 30.7 10.2 14 11.8 8.1 6.5
33.9
33 31.5 10.4 14.2 12.2 8.3 6.7
33.9
34 33.1 10.6 14.4 12.6 8.5 6.9
33.9
35 33.9 10.8 14.6 12.8 8.7 7.1 33.9
36 34.6 11 14.8 13 9.1 7.5
33.9
38 36.2 11.4 15.2 13.4 9.4 7.9
33.9
Made in Okayama, Japan

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