- 13oz. PBJ proprietary Black Broken Twill Japanese Selvedge denim
- Indigo Black Warp x Gray Weft
- Unsanforized denim
- Slim Tapered fit
- 5 button fly
- PBJ Original hardware (buttons & rivets)
- Blue Selvedge ID
- Lambskin leather back patch
- Leaf Logo on back right pocket
Freshly milled for the upcoming A/W 2021/22 season, PBJ push the envelop yet again on the R&D front with the introduction of a Selvedge composition we’ve never seen before. Clocking in at 13oz.’s, the denim falls on the lightweight side of the PBJ Selvedge spectrum, with the fabric taking on a softer hand feel and subtler texture. Although that slub has been toned down a touch with this development, the face of this denim is easily some of the hairiest fabric to grace our shelves.
Meant to an all-season denim with the lightweight element, an important feature of this fabric is the fact that it is a broken twill denim. Creating a zig-zag pattern in the weave that is otherwise impossible with a conventional Right Hand Twill (RHT) or Left Hand Twill (LHT) weave that is renowned for it's softer hand, Broken Twill doesn't follow either of these conventional rules.
Originally developed and brought to market by Wrangler back in the 1960s, broken twill was meant to serve the function of minimizing the inevitable leg twist commonly seen on unsanforized denim. Broken Twill alternates from left to right on every two warp ends, creating the coveted zig-zag aesthetic.
Before the selvedge is woven on vintage Toyoda shuttle looms into this distinctive denim, the yarns must be dyed to their respective Black/Indigo & Gray hues. The warp yarn in this case is an IDBK, meaning it is first rope-dyed in Indigo, after which it is over dyed in Black. The weft is sulphur dyed to create the unique “Wolf Grey” color tone. As these jeans are worn and fade, expect to first have the top layer of black overdye fade first, which will reveal the indigo rope-dyed warp underneath. Once the indigo warp continues to wear down, the color of fades that will set into the face of the fabric will be gray in color.
*Model is pictured wearing a size 31, One Wash. He weighs 75kg (165 pounds) and is 183cm (6’00”) tall.
**Please note that this is an unsanforized pair of denim, and the raw version will shrink up to 10% with the first soak, and will then stretch out with wear. Learn more about Unsanforized denim through our Raw Denim Care Guide, and also through this infographic! All measurements are based on the way we measure, according to our Fit Guide.