- Raw denim versions of this jacket are an OD Exclusive
- 17.5oz. Natural Sumi x Natural Indigo Sanforized Japanese Selvedge denim
- Slim Fit
- Type III Silhouette
- Natural Sumi ink dyed warp x Natural Indigo dyed weft
- Hank dyed Sumi ink x Natural Indigo
- Hand warmer pockets
- Large Coated Iron buttons with embossing
- Blue Selvedge ID edge
- Double Needle Chainstitching construction
- Chest pockets reinforced by rivets
- Black lamsbskin leather patch
- Leaf logo on side seam
Pushing the limits of Hank dyed Natural Indigo, PBJ just upped the ante. With the Warp dyed by hand in a dye derived from tree bark to create Natural Sumi, and the weft in Natural Indigo derived from locally grown indigofera plants, we can confidently say this piece once again raised the bar for the potential of hank (hand dyed using the skein dyeing method) dyed garments.
Traditionally, Sumi is produced from a combination of pinewood soot, animal glue and perfume. A common misconception is that the final product is a liquid, when in fact the ink is only the result of rubbing a solid ink 'stick' against an inkstone with water. Thus, the original production of ink sticks requires a painstaking process of thoroughly mixing the raw ingredients before kneading and shaping them in wooden moulds. The aging process can take from a few months to several years.
In the case of the Tokushima shokunin (artisans) that created the yarns used to produce this denim, the soot the comes off burnt pine tree bark is combined with a natural adhesive to create a natural Sumi sukumo which is then created into a dark dye.
The cotton yarns used to weave the Weft of this jacket are hank dyed with natural indigo, by aging craftsmen in Tokushima, Japan. With hank dyeing, the yarns are dipped repeatedly by hand (minimum of 20 times per lot) until the deep blue color of the natural indigo has settled into the cotton threading.
The persistence that hank dyeing with natural indigo requires, guarantees a denim with a more resilient indigo color than any chemical indigo dye. The lengthy duration for the preparation of the dye, as well as a limited annual supply (only using Japanese Indigofera plant leaves) make natural indigo denim from Tokushima particularly sought after.
*A Size 4 is featured in the pictures. Model weighs 99kg (218 pounds) and is 193cm (6'4") tall.
**This Jacket is available in Raw denim that has already undergone the Sanforization process. Although Sanforized, the jacket will shrink, as suggested in the Pre & Post Wash measurements below.