ODLW025
- 100% Recycled Supima Cotton
- Long Honeycomb Knit fabric
- One wash
- Garment dyed by Kyoto Montsuki
- 1960's military henley neck thermal motif
- 100% Cotton thread sewing construction
- Switched back yoke
- 4-needle Flat Seam construction (on a Union Special 36200)
- 2-needle binder neck construction
- Washed fabric (to eliminate shrinkage)
- Vintage reproduction ribbed cuffs
Cut & crafted from a rare and luxurious extra-long staple cotton yarn, the base material is special honeycomb thermal knit that has been woven from recycled Supima cotton, often classified as the pinnacle grade of cotton. Accounting for less than 1% of all cotton products globally manufactured, the yarn is prized for its natural oil content and silky lustrous hand feel. Utilizing the aforementioned Supima waste yarns into a “long honeycomb knit” provides a larger surface area to the weave, capturing heat in a more efficient manner for maximizing insulation.
Paying homage to U.S. military issued thermals from the 1960s, the entire seam construction is commanded by a 4 needle flat-seamer vintage sewing machine by skilled artisans with extensive experience with said machinery. Featuring proprietary jacquard ribbed cuffs, woven henley placket with cats eye buttons, back yoke panel construction & a special 3 needle binder stitch machine to produce the wide ribbed collar complete a piece that could only be produced by seasoned sewists.
The origins of “Kyoto Montsuki Black” can be traced back to the Heian period (794–1185), when deep black garments symbolized formality, dignity, and spiritual purity - most notably worn by Buddhist monks and Samurai. Historically, the process began by first dyeing garments in hues of red or indigo, allowing these base colors to deepen the tone and richness of the final black. The black pigment itself was derived from Betel nuts (Binrōji), a natural source of tannin that produces a warm, organic depth of color unattainable through synthetic means.
At Kyoto Montsuki, the modern continuation of this ancient art remains a deeply hands-on process. Each garment is dyed individually by master craftsmen who repeatedly immerse the fabric in a series of dye baths, layering the base colors before introducing the black pigment. Through this meticulous repetition, subtle temperature adjustments, and intuitive control of dye concentration, the craftsmen gradually coaxe out the deepest possible shade of black - one with visible warmth, depth, and life. Unlike surface-level chemical dyes, Kurozome permeates the fiber itself, yielding a black that ages beautifully and resists dulling over time.
*Model is pictured wearing a size M. He weighs 59kg (130 pounds) and is 178cm (5’11”) tall.
**Although this is a garment-dyed piece, the nature of Kyoto Montsuki Kurozome is that it is renowned as a solid dye with minimal crocking or color transfer onto other garments. Contrary to indigo, bleeding or transfer will be minuscule when it comes into contact with other fabrics either directly or during the washing process. Regardless, we strongly suggest hand washing with garment on its own, or with similar colors.
| Size - CM |
Chest |
Shoulder |
Center Back
|
Sleeve |
| M |
106 |
46 |
63 |
63.5 |
| L |
108 |
47 |
67.5 |
64 |
| XL |
114 |
51 |
72 |
66 |
| XXL |
116 |
53 |
73 |
69 |
| Size - Inches |
Chest |
Shoulder |
Center Back
|
Sleeve
|
| M |
41.7 |
18.1 |
24.8 |
25.0 |
| L |
42.5 |
18.5 |
26.6 |
25.2 |
| XL |
44.9 |
20.1 |
28.3 |
26.0 |
| XXL |
45.7 |
20.9 |
28.7 |
27.2 |
Made in Wakayama, Japan
