An OD+LW Collaboration | The "Kurozome" Supima Long Honeycomb Thermal Henley

Working with Loop & Weft over the years has really been inspiring, insightful and most importantly, allowed OD to continue on our natural dye journey through the countless collaborations we have done together. Now marking our 25th collaboration project together, we were granted a rare opportunity to partner with one of Japan’s most storied dye houses - Kyoto Montsuki, a workshop with over a century of experience specializing in the art of "Kurozome", or traditional Japanese black dyeing. The result is our first ever thermal Henley collaboration that is dyed to achieve the perfect, natural shade of black that Kyoto Montsuki has become renowned for.

The origins of “Kyoto Montsuki Black” can be traced back to the Heian period (794–1185), when deep black garments symbolized formality, dignity, and spiritual purity - most notably worn by Buddhist monks and Samurai. Historically, the process began by first dyeing garments in hues of red or indigo, allowing these base colors to deepen the tone and richness of the final black. The black pigment itself was derived from Betel nuts (Binrōji), a natural source of tannin that produces a warm, organic depth of color unattainable through synthetic means.

At Kyoto Montsuki, the modern continuation of this ancient art remains a deeply hands-on process. Each garment is dyed individually by master craftsmen who repeatedly immerse the fabric in a series of dye baths, layering the base colors before introducing the black pigment. Through this meticulous repetition, subtle temperature adjustments, and intuitive control of dye concentration, the craftsmen gradually coaxe out the deepest possible shade of black — one with visible warmth, depth, and life. Unlike surface-level chemical dyes, Kurozome permeates the fiber itself, yielding a black that ages beautifully and resists dulling over time.

Cut & crafted from a rare and luxurious extra-long staple cotton yarn, the base material is special honeycomb thermal knit that has been woven from recycled Supima cotton, often classified as the pinnacle grade of cotton. Accounting for less than 1% of all cotton products globally manufactured, the yarn is prized for its natural oil content and silky lustrous hand feel. Utilizing the aforementioned Supima waste yarns into a “long honeycomb knit” provides a larger surface area to the weave, capturing heat in a more efficient manner for maximizing insulation. Starting out as a natural color base, each henley undergoes the extensive dyeing process at Kyoto Montsuki in order to lock in that perfect shade of black that this historic dyeing house is known for. What is unique about this piece, is that the dyeing and subsequent wash process results in a silky smooth feeling fabric that is only possible due to the Kurozome technique.

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An OD+LW Collaboration | The "Kurozome" Supima Long Honeycomb Thermal Henley

The OD+LW "Kurozome" Supima Long Honeycomb Thermal Henley drops on 10/25 @Midnight (JST)

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