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There are plenty of Japanese denim brands that take inspiration from vintage American clothing, but considerably fewer that approach it through the eyes of a Frenchman who has spent much of his life immersed in the vintage scene and Japan in general. Our latest addition to the OD roster, Muller & Bros., is one such exception, bringing together decades of accumulated knowledge, a distinctly European perspective and the craftsmanship of Okayama.
The story begins with Stephane Muller, a French vintage clothing connoisseur whose fascination with American military surplus, denim and workwear stretches back to his early years in France. Long before establishing his own label, Muller was already deeply involved in the vintage clothing trade, developing a keen eye for the finer details of garments from the 1930s through the 1950s.
His career eventually brought him into close contact with Japan's burgeoning heritage clothing scene, forging relationships with some of the industry's most influential figures. Having spent nearly two decades based in Tokyo, Muller has developed an appreciation for Japanese craftsmanship that goes well beyond the usual admiration for Selvedge denim. In 2014, that experience culminated in the creation of Muller & Bros., a project developed alongside Makoto Kawai of Okayama-based Nap Inc., the same company behind The Superior Labor.
The concept was straightforward, but the execution anything but. Rather than simply reproducing old garments stitch for stitch, Muller & Bros. seeks to capture what made them interesting in the first place. The proportions, fabrics, construction methods and even the occasional imperfections of vintage clothing all inform the designs, with a subtle French sensibility adding another dimension to the familiar world of American workwear.
For our introduction to the brand, we couldn't think of a more fitting place to start than the Muller & Bros. 542XX 13.5oz. WWII Selvedge Jeans.
Few periods in denim history are quite as fascinating as the 1940s, when wartime restrictions forced American manufacturers to rethink the way everyday garments were produced. The resulting jeans have since become some of the most sought-after vintage examples, prized for their straightforward construction, distinctive details and unmistakable character. Muller & Bros. approaches this chapter of denim history with an eye for the details that matter. Cut from 13.5oz. Japanese Selvedge denim, the 542XX features a high rise, generous room through the thighs and a straight leg, capturing the relaxed proportions of vintage wartime jeans.
Black-painted buttons and rivets provide a particularly distinctive period reference, complemented by contrasting yellow stitching, herringbone twill pocket bags and concealed rear pocket rivets. These details come together in a pair of jeans that feels faithful to its historical inspiration without becoming overly elaborate.
The unsanforized denim has been given a one-wash treatment to address initial shrinkage, while retaining the character and aging potential that make traditional Japanese selvedge denim so appealing. With continued wear, the fabric will gradually develop the creases, fading and individual character that make a well-loved pair of jeans worth holding onto.
