An OD+LW Collaboration | The Kakishibu Dyed "Devil Weave" Crewneck Sweatshirt

Dubbed 鬼裏毛 (Oniurake, or devil’s weave) in Japanese due to the fatter yarn used to construct the weave, this specific fabric composition allows for a supremely soft and plush hand-feel while keeping the silhouette of the garment relatively relaxed. While there are touches of the familiar such as the classic V-gusset and ribbed hems/sleeves, a unique feature of the sweatshirt is the paneling in the shoulder area which eliminates the need for shoulder seams. As expected from Loop & Weft, the stitching construction is commanded on a Union 4-needle flat seamer for that impeccable finish.

Kakishibu has a deep-rooted history in Japanese craft culture & tradition, dating back to the early 13th century when it was first introduced to Japan from China. Annually in late August, unripe persimmon are harvested as their tannin or juice is extracted. Used as a multi-solution tool, Kakishibu was used to cure hangovers, for wood lacquering and even as a clearing agent for sake, to name only a few of the varied applications of the historic dye. 

Starting out as a natural heather cotton fabric base, the sweatshirts are dyed by hand, one piece at a time. Given the textured nature of the fabric and weave, the penetration of the natural Kakishibu dyed is also variegated, celebrating a range of natural Kakishibu hues. The delicacy of a natural Kakishibu dye can be realized upon contact with sunlight, darkening the brown color hue of the garment over time. This is the element of the wear with this piece that we are most excited to see! As the stress points should fade as with any dyed fabric, the overall shade will deepen to a darker brown with wear.