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SDA's "Kasezome" Sashiko has been one of our favorite fabrics to work with over the years, cementing its place as a mainstay in our ongoing collaboration projects with the Osaka OGs. Taking this fabric in its raw state, we kicked off our inaugural bomber jacket project, the Indigo "Kasezome" Selvedge Bomber Jacket back in Fall 2020. This year, it seemed the stars aligned with the latest iteration of the fabric that we thought up and helped SDA design, combining the skein-dyed Indigo warp with a Kakishibu dyed weft. The concept of weaving Kakishibu into the weft yarn of SDA's proprietary fabric follows the Kakishibu journey we've been stoked to be on for the past few years, celebrating one of our favorite quintessentially Japanese hues. Seeing how beautifully the deep indigo color combined with the brown pop of the Kakishibu dye from within, the path was set for us to produce our third outerwear project with SDA.
Kasezome is the art of skein dyeing, a hand dyeing method by wrapping undyed yarns into a loose coil and dipping them into a vat of Indigo (in this instance). The yarns are dyed to the core while still retaining their original texture, a feat only possible when the yarns are meticulously dyed by hand.
Kakishibu has a deep-rooted history in Japanese craft culture & tradition, dating back to the early 13th century when it was first introduced to Japan from China. Annually in late August, unripe persimmon is harvested as their tannin or juice is extracted. Used as a multi-solution tool, Kakishibu was used to cure hangovers, for wood lacquering and even as a clearing agent for sake, to name only a few of the varied applications of the historic dye.
Following our design ethos that makes an OD+ piece unique, we wanted to have something special tucked into the jacket just for the wearer/owner to enjoy.
We toyed around with indigo discharge fabrics, linen & canvas to use as possible lining material for the jacket, but eventually came across a few vintage Sukajan (Souvenir Jackets) during the design process, and the rest is history.
Cue the finest jacket liner we've had come through the doors. We took a Rayon heavy fabric that is usually reserved for Souvenir Jackets (or Sukajan), and had the entire inner of the jacket lined with the subtle, yet supreme, inlay.
Applying a 42% Rayon / 58% Cotton textile to line the entire jacket & pockets, a rich gold color was selected to line this piece. Selvedge details are littered throughout the item, from the locker loop sewn into the inner collar, the Selvedge ID featured on the inner chest pocket, and of course the ID running up the inner side of the zipper. The Zipper pull tabs were custom produced for this piece from a brown cowhide leather, featuring a contrast gold color zig-zag stitch detail.
*Model is pictured wearing a size 38. He weighs 66kg (145 pounds) and is 175cm (5’7”) tall.
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