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Following up from the explosive popularity of last year's ODPBJ002 "Kakishibu" Jeans, the remaining Selvedge fabric margin after coming off that release was very limited. A small enough amount to question whether we should even do anything with it, but enough to allow for some brainstorming. Wanting to do something different, we introduced the idea of a Type 2 with Handwarmer pockets to PBJ. This is a concept that they had never done, and was originally something they only integrated on their Type 3 jackets after a steady stream of requests came from you guys (OD clientele). They liked the idea so much, they went ahead and integrated our T2 original jacket design to their entire lineup for tops starting this season!
So began the design process, first having to sanforize the fabric prior to sewing the first sample (a common process when stitching jackets to minimize sizing concerns). We wanted the pocket size and placement to epitomize function, so with several attempts and rounds of sampling, we adjusted the angle of the pocket opening as well as the size of the pocket bags to find the right balance of function and design for this jacket.
Following up from last year's 20th Anniversary commemorative collection, we knew we had to put together something stellar. So of course, the conversation began at Selvedge. While there were a stream of initial ideas that arose from our brainstorming sessions, natural dye and artisan (or shokunin) craft kept coming up as key words. Kakishibu has been woven into the social and cultural fabric of Japanese society since it initial introduction to Japanese soil in the 13th century. With a wide range of applications, Kakishibu has historically been used as wood lacquer, as a clearing agent in the production of sake, and even as a cure for hangovers!
As production began with the fabric, our main incentive with this project was to highlight that insane slub that PBJ has become renown for. If you know, you know. Aesthetically, it was imperative that we brought to market a fabric that retained all the texture, while looking nothing like anything available from the current PBJ lineup. The Indigo Warp is again the same yarn used for the warp of the XX-18oz-013, and the Kakishibu Weft also rests at that 18oz. weight, resulting in a fabric that is equal parts slub & nep galore.
We weren't about to leave PBJ's iconic leaf behind. The color scheme took some adjusting over several rounds of sampling. Eventually we settled on only switching out the classic Indigo vein for a Kakishibu vein, leaving the dotted red Selvedge salute unchanged. The pocket bag and leather patch is where we were able to let loose, and brought in artist and PBJ superfan, Nathan Spoor, for the design. Riding that Kakishibu wave, the design developed by Nathan is immaculate and would have been flawless just as is. But how crazy would it be if we hand dyed each one of these leather patches in Kakishibu, we thought.
Each leather patch is hand painted in natural Kakishibu by the team at Okayama Denim, with horizontal painted streaks, giving the patch an aesthetic similar to wood. The hue of the Kakishibu paint will lighten with wear, developing patina in tandem with the denim fades.
*Discounts and/or promo codes of any kind, including OD Indigo Points, cannot be applied toward the general release of the "Kakishibu" collection. We kindly appreciate your patience & cooperation with this matter.
**A Size 4 is featured in the pictures. Model weighs 99kg (218 pounds) and is 193cm (6'4") tall.
|Size - CM (Raw)||Chest||Shoulder||Center Back||Sleeve||Cuff|
|Size - Inches (Raw)||Chest||Shoulder||Center Back||Sleeve||Cuff|
|Size - CM (Post-soak)||Chest||Shoulder||Center Back||Sleeve||Cuff|
|Size - Inches (Post-soak)||Chest||Shoulder||Center Back||Sleeve||Cuff|