The OD+PBJ Indigo x Kakishibu Selvedge Sashiko Pants

A project that feels like we first kickstarted a lifetime ago, the idea for our OD+PBJ Indigo x Kakishibu Sashiko denim was brought up in a meeting between myself and Iwaya san over two years ago now. It was following the release and success of the "Super Rough" Kakishibu’s, and in the midst of the preparation and production of the Aisora’s.

Having an affinity for PBJ’s attributable Sashi-ori, the weave carries a distinct aesthetic, with its narrow Sashiko threading (or “little stabs” in Japanese). Proprietary in nature and produced to date by the PBJ fam in Indigo & Black iterations, given our extended history with the brand and our ongoing collaboration series, it made sense for our OD+ version to be planned under the lens of Kakishibu.

To provide a rough timeline, ideation for this pair began at the end of 2020. The concept was to take what we’ve learned with the process of using Kakishibu to date, and improving on it. The fabric was put into production in April, 2021, with that fabric only coming off the production line and ready to be used in November, 2021. The first sample was designed with all details and sent in for production in early April, 2022. Due to the insane COVID complications that have almost become part and parcel of the industry and lead times recently, we didn’t get the first sample until late last year. Because of the above mentioned complications, we were forced to put the project on ice for six months because there was zero capacity in the factories to produce this collaboration. Finally with some flexibility on production space on the factory floor, we’re really stoked to be at this point with this pair.

Having first introduced the concept of the Kakishibu dyed yarns to PBJ back in 2018, seen through the ODPBJ002 jeans, was the first foray for the brand into Kakishibu dyeing. PBJ had not produced any product using Kakishibu up to this point, making the concept and collaboration between our two companies feel all the more special and important when we first released them. Fast forward a couple collaborations and half a decade, we're now on collab #4 with our dear friends at PBJ using the now familiar Kakishibu dye - The OG Kakishibu’s (which came in Jeans & Jackets), a garment dyed Kakishibu Slub Tee, the “Super Rough” Kakishibu jeans, and now these incredible Sashiko pants for our latest venture.

The two unique colors on their own are fairly straightforward - a deep brown which is made possible by the Kakishibu dye, and an Asagi (light Indigo) yarn for the Sashiko threading. In fact, they looked so common during the ideation process, we weren’t sure what we were getting into and hoped for the best. Once woven though, these two hues compliment each other so well, with the lighter Indigo blue Sashiko threading playing off the dark brown Kakishibu base to yield an almost purple hue at first glance. Under different lighting, indoor vs. outdoor, and other natural circumstances, this fabric can look wildly different.

As you can now expect from many of our OD+ projects, it’s our friend, talented artist & brother Nathan Spoor that penned the magic you see on the leather patch & pocket bag art for this project. While not wanting to deviate too far from the usual OD+ theme that many of our collaborations carry, we got to have fun with Nathan with the use of color for the pocket bag print on this piece.

The general release for our Indigo x Kakishibu Sashiko pants will begin tomorrow night (2/22 @ Midnight JST). One epic fabric, available in all four iconic PBJ fits. Stay tuned, fam.

Merv Sethi, Director