Samurai Jeans | The 18oz. "Shinsengumi" Selvedge Jeans

March 02, 2021

The Makoto (誠, Loyalty) battle standard. Across Japan, this is still one of the most recognizable banners to this day. The Shinsen-gumi (新選組, New Select Brigade) who carried this ominous standard, are revered as a band of warriors who played a pivotal role in what can be considered one of the most tumultuous periods in Japanese history.
Following the Kanagawa Treaty and the opening of the country to the west in 1854, Japan gradually descended into political instability particularly between the Imperial loyalists based in Kyoto and the Tokugawa Shogunate based in Edo. Fearing armed opposition and a shift in power, the ruling Shogun Tokugawa Iemochi formed a force consisting of 234 Ronin to protect him during his journey from Kyoto to Edo, which would later become the foundation of the Shinsengumi. Following a meeting with the then Emperor Komei in 1863 in which allegiance shifted from that of the Shogun to the Emperor, 13 members of the original brigade sent to protect the Shogun formed the Shinsengumi which gradually grew in numbers, eventually splitting into three separate factions lead by Serizawa Kamo, Kondo Isami and Tonouchi Yoshio.
Internal conflicts led to the eventual death of Serizawa, with Kondo and Tonouchi assuming power over the then 300 strong brigade. Consisting of mostly non-Samurai warriors, many of the members recruited from the local area were average folk at the time - farmers, craftsmen, merchants. However a strict code of honor and undeterred resolve would turn an individual into a fighting machine, worthy of joining the ranks of the Shinsengumi.
The suppression of a revolutionary cell in 1864 by the Shinsengumi is said to be their greatest accolade, possibly saving Kyoto from being burned down and a revolutionary coup being established. 
Fast forward to the Boshin Civil War, the Shinsengumi now fought alongside the 15th Tokugawa Shogun opposing the newly restored Meiji Emperor. Consisting of many ferocious battles, the war eventually resulted in the fall of Edo in 1868. Many members of the Shinsengumi, including Kondo, were killed with the remaining survivors fleeing to Hokkaido.
 
 Regarded as some of the most fearless and loyal warriors of the Shogunate, the fall of the Shinsengumi is regarded as the fall of the "last true Samurai" of Japan. In true Samurai fashion, the Osaka OG's have created from the ground up their new Shinsengumi Selvedge, in honor of the once 300 strong band of men who left a lasting legacy in Japanese history. 
A totally fresh development for 2021, the 18oz. extra-Slubby "Makoto" Selvedge fabric was created from scratch, just like the grassroots formation of the Shinsengumi.
The streakiness and varying levels of hues of indigo ripple through-ought the heavyweight fabric, enough to leave even the most seasoned Denimhead in awe.
The eye-catching shade of blue and red seen in the Selvedge ID was carefully selected by Samurai to pay homage to the instantly recognizable light-capri blue (浅葱色, Asagi-iro) haori that the Shinsengumidonned on top of their battle regalia. The red color is symbolic of the red "Makoto" battle standard that was carried into battle.
The same shade of red is also used for the custom screen printed pocket bags. Just as the banner symbolized the loyalty of each member of the Shinsengumi, details such as this are representative of denimheads staying loyal to a single pair of jeans.
Further hints of the light blue color can be seen through-ought the jeans, such as the custom stitching seen on the back pockets...
...as well as the reinforced buttonhole stitching and belt loops.
Cut in the fan-favorite S710 silhouette, the reasonably spacious top block and gradually tapering leg offer the right balance of dimensions for all body types.
 
Sizing

*Please note that when Samurai's factory washed this new proprietary 18oz. Selvedge, it shrunk a ton during the commercial wash process, resulting in the One Wash variant sizing looking significantly smaller than we expected. Please note that when you soak the Raw version at home, the shrinkage will be much less than the difference between Raw and One Wash variants of this model.

We estimate shrinkage of a raw pair, when soaked for 40 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes, to be as follows: Waist -1", Front Rise -0.5", Back Rise -0.5", Upper thigh -0.5", Knee -0.4", Leg opening -0.3").

While the waist should stretch back to the pre-soak sizing, we would note that the shrinkage of the other dimensions will be permanent.

Size - CM (Raw) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
29 76 27 36 28.5 21.5 21.5 96.5
30 78 27 36.5 29 22 22 96.5
31 80 27.5 37 30 22.5 22.5 96.5
32 83 28.5 38 31 23 23 96.5
33 86 29 39 31.5 23.5 23.5 96.5
34 89 30 40 32 24 24 96.5
35 90 30.5 40.5 32.5 25 25 96.5
36 92 31 41 33.5 25.5 25.5 96.5
38 97 31.5 42 35.5 26 26 96.5
 Size - Inches (Raw) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
29 29.9 10.6 14.2 11.2 8.5 7.5 38
30 30.7 10.6 14.4 11.4 8.7 7.7 38
31 31.5 10.8 14.6 11.8 8.9 7.9 38
32 32.7 11.2 15 12.2 9.1 8.1 38
33 33.9 11.4 15.4 12.4 9.3 8.3 38
34 35 11.8 15.7 12.6 9.4 8.3 38
35 35.4 12 15.9 12.8 9.8 8.5 38
36 36.2 12.2 16.1 13.2 10 8.7 38
38 38.2 12.4 16.5 14 10.2 9.1 38
Size - CM (One Wash) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
30 72 25.5 34 27.5 21 18.5 88.5
31 74 26 34.5 28 21 18.5 88.5
32 76 26.5 35 29 21.5 19 88.5
33 78 27 36 29.5 22 19.5 88.5
34 80 27.5 36.5 30 22.5 20 88.5
35 82 28 37 31 23 20.5 88.5
36 84 28.5 37.5 32 23.5 21 88.5
38 88 29.5 38.5 32.5 24 21.5 88.5
 Size - Inches (One Wash) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
30 28.3 10 13.4 10.8 8.3 7.3 34.8
31 29.1 10.2 13.6 11 8.3 7.3 34.8
32 29.9 10.4 13.8 11.4 8.5 7.5 34.8
33 30.7 10.6 14.2 11.6 8.7 7.7 34.8
34 31.5 10.8 14.4 11.8 8.9 7.9 34.8
35 32.3 11 14.6 12.2 9.1 8.1 34.8
36 33.1 11.2 14.8 12.6 9.3 8.3 34.8
38 34.6 11.6 15.2 12.8 9.4 8.5 34.8

The 18oz. "Shinsengumi" Selvedge Jeans drop on 3/3 @ Midnight (JST)


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