An OD+LW Collaboration | The Indigo Dyed Cotton Latch Pile Military Sweatpants

March 19, 2021

Fresh out the lab for S/S'21 is our fifth collaboration in the ongoing series with Loop & Weft, the purveyors of the "Best Knitwear" in Japan. Combining meticulous construction with a proprietary garment dyed fabric, our new Indigo Dyed Cotton Latch Pile USN Sweatpants single-handedly elevate loungewear.
Quite the challenge to marry heavy texture with an ultra soft 100% cotton jersey fabric, cue the crew at Loop & Weft to perfect that formula.
So there is pile fabric of course (imagine the raised yarn nature of a classic towel fabric). Then there is "Latch Pile", a modified machine with a custom "latch" mechanism, which is used to create the tightly woven two-ply Latch Pile fabric. The result of this double face fabric, woven using this method, ensures no significant piling of the fabric or stretch with extended wear.
Furthermore, by employing a technique known as "skip knitting" there is no sacrifice to the durability of the fabric over time. Along with minimal shrinkage mentioned above, the skip knitting nature of these sweatpants help to retain the silhouette over multiple wears and washes.
As is the case with all Loop & Weft garments, the construction is all conducted on vintage sewing machinery that is often time incredibly rare, even in Japan. Meticulously "otaku" (Japanese for Nerd) about vintage machinery, construction & knitwear, we admire and respect all L&W product for the simple fact that no corner is cut in production.
Exemplifying the softness of this fabric is the use of a compact yarn in the weave, a process of twisting the yarns with a machine to ensure that each yarn is as straight as possible, by using a rotating mechanism.
As the fabric is woven using a single, custom rigged machine, the production capacity of this proprietary Latch Pile fabric is exceptionally limited. 
Starting out as an ecru base fabric, each individual pair of sweatpants is tediously garment dyed by hand. This process ensures the dye penetrates through the surface of the yarn, yielding to a rich hue of blue that will fade beautifully with wear.
Double stitched knee detail, flat seam construction & a triple needle lockstitch on the cuffs complete the kit on these.
Featuring ribbed cuffs constructed using a triple need lockstitch machine, the elevated construction guarantees temporary malleability while still maintaining the form over a long period of wear.
In true L&W style, the same ribbed fabric has been used for each pocket bag of the sweatpants.
The waistband also features thick drawstrings which we are amused to see age over time, given the inevitable indigo runoff over multiple wears and washes.
Taking cues from USN grade specifications, the most notable being the stitched knee pads which was standard issue for all vintage US military sweatpants. This single detail is probably the most time consuming part of the construction, as the flat seamer stitching is not done on the face, but rather is stitched into the inlay of the pants.
The addition of the crotch gusset construction (also on a flat seamer machine) adds that ergonomic touch, while providing space for a roomy top block.
Preston on the left is pictured wearing a size M.  He weighs 76kg (165 pounds) and is 185cm (6'0") tall
Ryo on the right is pictured wearing a size XS. He weighs 59kg (130 pounds) and is 178cm (5’11”) tall.
Size - CM Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg opening Inseam
XS 69 29 45 27.5 18.5 10.5 63
S 74 30 46.5 28.5 19.5 11 65
M 78 31 47.5 30 20.5 11.5 66.5
L 81 32 48.5 31 21 12 70
XL 85 33 49.5 32 22.5 13 71
Size - Inches Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg opening Inseam
XS 27.2 11.4 17.7 10.8 7.3 4.1 24.8
S 29.1 11.8 18.3 11.2 7.7 4.3 25.6
M 30.7 12.2 18.7 11.8 8.1 4.5 26.2
L 31.9 12.6 19.1 12.2 8.5 4.7 27.6
XL 33.5 13 19.5 12.6 8.9 5.1 28


The OD+LW Indigo Dyed Cotton Latch Pile USN Military Sweatpants drop on 3/20 @ Midnight (JST)

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