An OD+SDA Collaboration | The "Amami Dorozome" Crewneck Tees collection
Our journey exploring natural and sustainable dyes continues with our annual summer tee collaboration for 2022. Working closely with the treasured dyeing craftsmen of Amami-Oshima & Studio D’Artisan, we celebrate an ancient Japanese dyeing technique with our latest collaborative effort. Taking the standard US cotton body tees sewn in Wakayama by SDA, these pieces have embarked on a journey of more than 1000km to the tiny island of Amami-Oshima, located between Kyushu and Okinawa. It is here that each individual tee is hand-dyed by the treasured Island craftsmen, resulting in the two unique earthy brown tones featured in the "Amami Dorozome" Tees collection.
The art of Dorozome seeps deep into the history of the island of Amami-Oshima. Historically, the natural dye (derived from Sharimbai, or wood chips from the Japanese Hawthorne tree) were used to color natural silk, used in the production of Kimono. Recounting the history of the island, in 1609 Amani-Oshima was invaded and controlled by Samurai, who ordained the expulsion of any silk garb by the working class. This blanket ordinance assisted in developing the industry of Dorozome dyeing on the island. There was a surge in demand for silk kimono clothing discreetly dyed using the Dorozome method, to conceal the silk DNA of the garments.
The process of mud-dyeing involves two key stages. The branches taken from Hawthorne trees are first chopped before being simmered in water for two days. This creates the all-important tannin base which is required for mud dyeing. The ecru body tees are first soaked in this bath, prior to being introduced to the mud bath. The mud itself is derived from Amami-Oshima's rice fields which are highly rich in iron, constantly replenished by the abundant mountain streams flowing through the area to the sea. When the tees are soaked in the mud bath, a chemical reaction occurs that extracts the colors from the mud, and assists in penetrating them into the fabric. Depending on the levels of exposure to the wood chip and mud baths, the resulting colors will differ. It is thanks to the expertise of the aging craftsmen that this ancient and sustainable dyeing approach is still possible today.
The OD+SDA "Amami Dorozome" Crewneck Tees ($130 USD) drop on 7/14 @ Midnight (JST)
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