OD+LW Kakishibu "Devil Weave" Crewneck Sweatshirt

ODLW014

+Due to the very limited production capability of this specific fabric, discount codes cannot be applied to this product.

• Original Big Loopback Heather Fleece fabric
• 100% Cotton thread sewing construction
• Garment-dyed in Kakishibu
• Ribbed cuffs and hem
• Seamless shoulderline
• 4-needle flat seam construction 
• Drop Shoulder design
• Washed fabric (to eliminate shrinkage) 

Paying homage to an iconic garment that has solidified its place in athletic & urban street culture, the Champion Reverse weave sweatshirt has been revered in Japan for decades as the pinnacle of Americana, treated similar to the Levi’s 1947 501xx in terms of cultural relevance. Originally developed by Champion back in 1938, athletic coaches were looking for ways to commercially launder large quantities of sports garments without having to deal with the stress of shrinkage & degeneration over time. Champion developed this Reverse Weave in response, a vertically knit fabric that when sewn into a garment would minimize shrinkage and maximize durability. This specific kind of woven composition is referred to in Japanese as 鬼裏毛 (Oniurake, or devil’s weave), because of the fatter yarn used to construct the weave.

Distinctive to the construction of this piece, a radical panel cutting technique eliminates the need for shoulder seams by cutting the body panel at 90 degrees of the fabric's grainline. Double-layer rib knit side panels commanded on a 4-needle flat seamer, the V-gusset detail and drop shoulder construction all complete a design that borrows from history to create something unapologetically new.

The dyeing process starts with a natural cotton heather slub jersey base, with the sweatshirts then dyed in Natural Kakishibu by hand, piece by piece. A combination of the irregular weave and texturally irregular fabric base results in a penetration of the natural dye in a variegated fashion, celebrating a range of Kakishibu dyed hues.

*Model is pictured wearing a size S. He weighs 59kg (130 pounds) and is 178cm (5’11”) tall.

**As this is a garment-dyed piece, please note that this garment may stain other articles of clothing given the nature of the natural Kakishibu dye. This bleeding or transfer of color onto other garments can happen when it comes into contact, either directly or during the wash process. We would recommend washing this garment with similar colors.