Okayama Denim

OD+LW Indigo Dyed Tompkins Knit After Hood Sweatshirt


+Due to the limited production capacity of this specific garment, discount codes cannot be applied to this product.

  • 100% Cotton
  • Japanese Tompkins knit fabric
  • Garment dyed in Indigo
  • Cotton thread sewing construction
  • Slim fit silhouette
  • Vintage-inspired attached hood
  • Kangaroo pocket
  • 4-needle flat seam construction
  • Washed fabric (to eliminate shrinkage)
  • Vintage-inspired ribbed cuffs (slimmer, to replicate the original)

An iconic weave within the Loop & Weft roster, the Tompkins fleece knit is a legendary fabric produced on the Tompkins upright rotary knitting machine. Invented in the mid-1800s, the knitting machine operates at an exceptionally slow speed, and lacks the production efficiency seen from the succeeding loopwheel fabrics that followed it. With only a handful of these Tompkins knit machines still operating in Japan, the weave construction closely resembles in texture and weight to the original fabric from the 1800s. Contrary to loopwheel machines which usually knit from top to bottom at a relatively high speed, the Tompkins construction moves dead slow and in the opposite direction from bottom to top to produce a thick yet soft fabric containing ample air.

The design cues salute the classic double-V-gusset after hoodie, including the V-gussets on the front & back, an after hood construction sewn just below the binder crewneck and a kangaroo pocket that is overlocked at the ends using a 2-needle stitch. The dyeing process starts with a natural cotton sweat jersey base, with each piece then dyed in Indigo by hand.

With the raw edge construction on the kangaroo pocket, custom ribbing, 4 needle flat seam sewing construction & the quintessential vintage hoodie detail, the post attached hood. A detail born out of necessity, athletes & laborers alike wanted protection from the elements, and Champion stitched on hoods to their classic crewneck sweatshirts starting in the late 30s.

While most sweatshirts are produced using a thicker threading (30-ban in Japanese), the production of these Tompkins sweatshirts use a thinner 40-ban yarn to create a sweatshirt fabric that gives any Loopwheel sweatshirt out on the market a serious run for it's money.

*Model is pictured wearing a size S. He weighs 59kg (130 pounds) and is 178cm (5’11”) tall.

**As this is a garment-dyed piece, please note that this garment may stain other articles of clothing given the nature of the Indigo dye. This bleeding or transfer of color onto other garments can happen when it comes into contact, either directly or during the wash process. We would recommend washing this garment with similar colors.

Size - CM Chest Shoulder Center Back Sleeve
S 106 46 57 57
M 112 49 60 58
L 115 52 62 59
XL 125 53.5 63.5 60
XXL 132 58 65.5 62
Size - Inches Chest Shoulder Center Back Sleeve
S 41.7 18.1 22.4 22.4
M 44.1 19.3 23.6 22.8
L 45.3 20.5 24.4 23.2
XL 49.2 21.1 25 23.6
XXL 52 22.8 25.8 24.4
 Made in Wakayama, Japan