OD+SJ 17oz. "Hidaribushi" Left Hand Twill Selvedge Jeans (Middle Straight)

ODSJ010

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• Samurai Jeans Original 17oz. Unsanforized Left Hand Twill Selvedge Denim
• 100% Cotton
• Middle Straight Silhouette 
• Assorted embossed metal button fly opening
• Silver 大和 "Yamato" Sakura inspired Rivets
• OD collaboration proprietary single black coated "+" rivet
• Red x Silver Lamé "Bushi-mimi" Selvedge ID
• Fifth coin pocket selvedge detail
• Selvedge lined back pocket detail
• Selvedge button fly construction
• OD+SJ 4mm Tochigi leather patch
• Natural Indigo Sashiko pocket bags
• Natural Indigo Sashiko back pocket lining
• Samurai Jeans Original hidden back pocket stitched arcuates
• Samurai Jeans Original Rayon tag

For our tenth collaboration project with the sword-wielding brand from Osaka, we set out to put an unconventional denim weave on a pedestal, while drawing inspiration from Japan's fascinating Samurai history.

Rewinding back to the feudal era, society trained children to use their right hand for writing, eating, and even martial arts. To be left handed was to move against the grain and particularly in the military classes, outright stigamitzed. Samurai were trained to wield their katana, spears and bows using the right hand and given that conformity ruled the roost, few questioned this doctrine. Despite this, a few warriors stood apart. Historical records name Kusunoki Masanori, a general of the 14th century Southern Court, as a rare example of a left-handed samurai. While some are simply left to rumor and folklore, court documents prove that Kusonoki Masanori was left-hand dominant due to his distinctive writing style. Artwork depicting Kusunoki Masanori also display him wielding his Yari (spear) with his left hand, catching any adversary off guard that happened to come across his way. While rumors of other famous samurai being left-handed such as Saito Hajime, a captain of the notorious Shinsengumi brigade do exist, historians have always been skeptical of this fact due to the lack of conclusive historical records paired with a general cultural stigma against left-hand dominant practices.

It’s from this spirit that we drew the name “Hidaribushi” (左武士, ‘Left-Handed Warrior’) as a nod to those who defied the norm. Just as left-handed samurai turned tradition on its head, Left Hand Twill denim does the same in the world of Selvedge denim fabric. Whereas most denim is woven in a Right Hand twill fashion, Lee introduced the LHT weave in the mid-20th century, setting their jeans apart from Levi’s and other competitors. The diagonal weave of LHT denim twill runs in the opposite direction, producing denim that feels smoother to the touch. Furthermore, this denim develops a distinct vertical fading pattern, and softens dramatically with wear. This is the foundation behind the heavyweight 17oz. Denim used for this collaboration.

Along with a great fabric, the Hidarisbushi Jeans come packed with details unique to our ongoing OD+SJ collaboration series. For the pocket bags and back pocket liner fabric we once again turn to our friends at Tsujimura-Ai, where we sourced a deadstock Natural Indigo Sashiko - just enough to be featured in this limited run of 85 pairs. Hardware-wise we have stuck to much of the usual bells and whistles with a new inclusion of our custom produced "+" rivet set into the right front pocket as a subtle signature.

The S500AX silhouette is based off the previously released S5000VX, which is actually described as a Middle Straight. The cut has been adjusted to give a slightly narrower leg opening, but this is a fit we would be comfortable describing as right in between a Regular Straight and a Slim Straight pair. A comfortable top block, with a relaxed fitting leg, with a very slight taper from the knee down to the hem.

*Model is pictured wearing size 29. He weighs 59kg (130 pounds) and is 178cm (5’11”) tall.

**Please note that this is an unsanforized pair of denim, and will shrink up to 10% with the first soak, and will then stretch out with wear. Learn more about Unsanforized denim through ourRaw Denim Care Guide, and also through this infographic! All measurements are based on the way we measure, according to our Fit Guide.