An OD+BJ Collaboration | The "Luxe" Selvedge Jeans

For our latest venture into the featherweight Selvedge game, we team up with Japan's oldest denim maker to bring our latest concept to fruition. Big John was the first Japanese garment manufacturer to produce a 100% Made in Japan product for the local market back in 1973. The Okayama-based brand continues to innovate and deliver premium quality Japanese Selvedge denim with adapted silhouettes for the modern market.

Working closely with Big John throughout this project we were able to conjure a pair of jeans that epitomize versatility, with an extra hit of luxury. Whether you are a newcomer to the raw denim scene or a veteran, this model packs in the fabric and details that can be appreciated by all.

 In order to build the Luxe Jeans from the ground up, we were stoked to be able to work with Nihon Menpu, a boutique Selvedge denim mill based in Ibara, Okayama. With a rich history spanning over 100 years and a library of fabrics as far as the eye can see, the family-run business was pivotal to being able to mill for us the fabric that epitomized the premium feel we were looking for. It was at this juncture that they recommended to us a lightweight 12.5oz. Selvedge fabric that utilized Indian cotton which is renowned as one of the softest in the world. 

The warp features a no. 8 Desi Nep yarn, which has a short fiber length and a rough texture. While our aim for this project has been to put comfort on a pedestal, we wanted to do so without compromise to texture.

Renowned as one the highest-quality premium cottons in the world, Suvin Gold combines a long staple cotton yarn with a very thin fiber width. This paves the way for shuttle-ready yarns that are supremely soft, yet highly sturdy. Another unmistakable characteristic of this type of cotton is the lustrous sheen it gives to the face of the denim fabric. Typically, jeans constructed exclusively with Suvin Gold warp and weft yarns are highly uniform. However the combination of the neppy Desi warp and the exceptionally smooth Suvin Gold weft results in one of the most refined lightweight fabrics we have seen to date.

Another element that we sourced from Nihon Menpu was the colorful Sashiko Stitch fabric we have used for the pocket bags and back pocket half lining. Given their expansive history with Sashiko, the weave is a fabric that is very close to their legacy as a denim mill. From collecting vintage kimono garments to sourcing dead stock rolls from across the country, Nihon Menpu have produced and amassed an array of this quintessentially Japanese fabric. 

First used in Chinese maps to represent the ocean, the "Seigaiha" pattern featured as the background in the leather patch and flasher was the perfect traditional artwork which our good friend Nathan Spoor reimagined to tie in all the right elements to complete the Luxe Jeans package. Japanese  "Seigaiha" patterns are  one of the most recognizable around the world. Depicting waves, "Seigaiha" has been used not only in kimono fabrics but can be seen as the decorative pattern of temple walls, gates and bridges, as well as the artwork of Japanese lacquerware and glassware.

The New Tapered cut is a complete revamp from any previous Big John cut to date. We took the previously available Slim Tapered cut from Big John and reworked it for a more flattering final aesthetic. The Rises & Thighs are now roomier than previous BJ Slim Tapered's, with the taper beginning just above the knee and continuing down to the leg opening. Given that this fabric is sanforized, the shrinkage is absolutely minimal and the jeans can be worn right out of the bag. We also advise accounting for at least 1 inch of stretch at the waist as the jeans are worn in.

Joining the OD 10th Anniversary club of releases for this year to commemorate our decade in Selvedge, we wanted this release to be democratic and attainable. Keeping the price sub-200, while packing in the details on the pair & packaging, we want to share our passion at a price point that is approachable for this project.