An OD+SJ Collaboration | The 17oz. "Tōshi" Selvedge Jeans

June 23, 2021

Tōshi(闘志)translates as "fighting spirit" in Japanese
For our sixth collaboration with Samurai Jeans we decided on approaching the project with the aim to put a fabric on a pedestal which is deeply rooted in the history of the sworld-wielding brand. Celebrating a veteran denim that has stood the test of time in Samurai's 20+ year history, and giving it our OD flair, was a challenge we wanted to give our full fighting spirit to bring to fruition.
This brings us to the name - "Tōshi". The etymology of  Tōshi(闘志)or "fighting spirit" traces its roots back to the Edo period in Japan and embodies the unfaltering resolve of the Samurai not only on the battlefield, but in all facets of life itself. While in the modern day, we like to think that approaching challenges with logic and technology is par for the course. However, here at OD, we also have a firm belief that the concept of "fighting spirit" is far from being outdated. It is the added instinctive drive we summon from within that fuels the passion to continue pushing the boundaries of Selvedge Denim.
Similarly, the story of the original production of the 17oz. "Zero" Selvedge back in 2004 ties very well into the concept of "Tōshi". The development of this heavyweight fabric was not without its issues. Right from the get-go, the choice of using an irregular no. 5 yarn for both warp and weft was not only considered unconventional, but a darn-right liability in the eyes of Mill owners. In the initial trial-runs of the fabric, it is said that the looms broke down after only 2 or 3 meters of the fabric were produced. Thanks to the never-give-up attitude of Samurai coupled with the continued cooperation of the craftsmen in Okayama, after much trial-and-error, a full run of the "Zero" fabric was completed. From that first production lot, the OG S3000VX and S5000VX Jeans were introduced to the market.
In celebration of this breakthrough, Samurai graced this fabric with their now-fabled Red x Silver Lamé "Bushi-mimi" Selvedge ID. The deep red color of this Selvedge ID represents the burning hot blood of the Samurai's soul, and the unwavering desire to achieve victory at all costs. The warp yarns are also rope dyed to a deeper than usual hue of Indigo blue. Time and time again, we hear denimheads attest that the slub factor within this "Zero" fabric makes way for one of the best fading fabrics ever introduced by the Osaka OGs.
Featuring a relaxed top block, with an aggressive taper starting from above the knee, the Comfort Tapered cut was designed by Okayama Denim for Samurai Jeans back in October 2018. The cut seeks to rectify the smaller set of rises and tight thighs commonly found in Japanese slim tapered silhouettes. By adding a much larger margin in these areas, and sharpening up the taper from the knee down, the Comfort Tapered cut attains a fine balance of a roomy top block while maintaining a sleek and modern aesthetic.
Hardware-wise, we decided after multiple sampling stages that keeping the "Sakura" rivets unpainted was the most aesthetically pleasing choice for our latest collaboration model. However, as a salute to some of our previously released jeans in the OD+SJ series, we decided to include a single navy coated rivet on the fifth pocket. We're stoked to see how the navy paint patinas in tandem with the fabric, over extended wear!
We also brought back the assorted metal button fly, featuring Samurai's Japan-inspired embossing, borrowed from the various models of their stellar lineup. Starting at the top with the "Matsunoki" (Pine Tree) iron button, we opted to include the elegant sterling plated "Sakura" button, followed by the rare gold plated "Hinode" button, with the iron "Taiko" (Japanese drum) and "Také" (Bamboo) buttons completing the fly.
Also seldom seen in Samurai's regular lineup these days, we felt this would be the perfect opportunity to bring back the red rayon tag, phased out recently due to impeding legal issues. Featuring Samurai's silver lamé threading on an iconic blood red rayon tag, just below the waistband on the front-left side of the jeans is where is opted to place the branding element.
To round-off this collaboration model, for the pocket bags we opted to apply one of the most unique fabrics we have seen from Samurai to date, a textile originally featured as the base for one of their S/S 2021 shirts. The natural color Kasezome Sashiko stripe fabric was developed from scratch by the Samurai team. Using the traditional Kasezome skein dyeing method, the unique Sashiko pattern is achieved by meticulously weaving the individual yarns after the dyeing process.

Model is pictured wearing size 31. He weighs 75kg (165 pounds) and is 183cm (6’00”) tall.

Size - CM (Raw) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
28 76 27.5 37.5 30 19 16 90
29 78 28 38.5 30.5 19.5 16.5 90
30 80 28.5 39 31.5 20.5 16.5 90
31 83 28.5 39.5 32 21 17 90
32 86 29 40 32.5 21.5 17.5 90
33 88 30 40.5 33.5 22 18 90
34 90 30.5 40.5 34 22 18.5 90
35 92 31 41 34.5 22.5 19 90
36 94 31.5 42 35 23 19 90
38 100 31.5 43 36 24 19.5 90
40 106 32 43.5 37 25 20.5 90

Size - Inches (Raw) Waist Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam
28 29.9 10.8 14.8 11.8 7.5 6.3 35.4
29 30.7 11 15.2 12 7.7 6.5 35.4
30 31.5 11.2 15.4 12.4 8.1 6.5 35.4
31 32.7 11.2 15.6 12.6 8.3 6.7 35.4
32 33.9 11.4 15.7 12.8 8.5 6.9 35.4
33 34.6 11.8 15.9 13.2 8.7 7.1 35.4
34 35.4 12 15.9 13.4 8.7 7.3 35.4
35 36.2 12.2 16.1 13.6 8.9 7.5 35.4
36 37 12.4 16.5 13.8 9.1 7.5 35.4
38 39.4 12.4 16.9 14.2 9.4 7.7 35.4
40 41.7 12.6 17.1 14.6 9.8 8.1 35.4
The ODSJ006 17oz. "Tōshi" Selvedge Jeans drop on 6/24 @ Midnight (JST)

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