PROCESS | Developing the "Double" Natural Indigo

May 26, 2020

Let's be honest for a sec, cause we are all thinking the same thing. What the hell could make a pair over US$800!? We do our best to walk you through each step of the denim development.
The beauty lies is the process of developing this extremely rare fabric, and it all starts with these fields of the Indigofera Plant in Tokushima, Japan, where the leaves are picked and dried to begin the process of creating the Sukumo (Natural Indigo Dye mixture).
Hank dyeing is the process of dyeing the cotton threading in a rope-like bunch by hand.
Each band of threading is dipped a minimum of 20 times in this case to create the beautiful and resilient hue of Indigo seen on the new "Double" Natural Indigo fabric.
(From L to R) Sample board of undyed cotton yarns on the left to cotton yarns dipped 20 times; the vats holding the Sukumo (composition of Indigofera leaves, water, sake, etc.); dyeing process in full action seen on the right.
Once the yarns are dyed, they are processed in the factory and left out to hang dry in the sun in the most natural setting possible. This process also helps to retain the deep hue of indigo by limit the bleeding of the yarns.
Once the yarns are Mill ready, they are sent back down to Kojima, Okayama from Tokushima to be milled on the single machine rigged to output PBJ's famed slubby and irregular Selvedge denim.
With both quality and price eye-watering, we realize this piece is not for everyone. Considering the tedious production and construction process (dyeing, weaving & sewing) coupled with the very limited output quantity of this item, these were manufactured with the diehard denimhead in mind.
The Slim Tapered just restocked, while the Relax Tapered fit is here for the first time:

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